Christmas Markets in Provence

For many days now, in most of the smaller & larger towns and cities in Provence .. log cabins have been appearing. Artisan sellers have moved in with everything from Regional candies and toys to hand made quilts, sweaters, hats and santons! Everything Christmas is here including a great Christmas ambiance. What fun! If you are travelling in the area at Christmas, with or without children – the Christmas Markets of Provence are a must.

Log Cabin Stalls at Avignon Christmas Market

Christmas Markets of Provence – Avignon – Let’s go Shopping! The towns are decorated with lots of lights, signs wishing, “Joyeuse Fetes” and “Joyeux Noel” (happy Christmas and happy holidays). The markets will be open every day and late into the evening, until January 2nd 2011. Children’s events and activities, concerts, processions, street performers, warm mulled wine, hot apple cider, hot chocolate, warm roasted chestnuts and spice bread – all treats that make Christmas shopping relaxing, fun and a lot less stressful.

Avignon Hotel de Ville – City Hall – dressed up in its Christmas finest

Christmas Markets of Provence – Avignon
– Street Performers add to the festive ambiance

Christmas Markets of Provence – Avignon – Carousel in the Place de l’Horloge

Only thirty minutes drive from Sablet, Avignon’s Christmas Market is one of my favorites – held on the beautiful Place de l’Horloge in front of the stately City Hall which is dressed up for the occasion in its Christmas finest. You can take a leisurely stroll through the fifty something stalls, stop and talk to Père Noel (Santa), ride the magnificent Carousel and enjoy the ambience whilst purchasing goodies for your Christmas feast or souvenirs to bring home.

Christmas Markets of Provence – Avignon – baked goods and candies

Christmas Markets of Provence – Avignon – Artisnal Cheeses

Christmas Markets of Provence – Avignon – Pain d’Epices (Spice Cake)

You will treated to all kinds for food choices – regional products, home made jams, jellies and preserves, an unbelievable variety of artisanal cheeses, baked goodies – especially the incredible Pain d’Epices (Spice Cake), handmade chocolates, several varieties of nougat, preserved meats and saucisson (salami) of all shapes and sizes.

As you enter the market, the smell of the warm roasted chestnuts can’t be missed

– and is the favorite “walking around “ food, although…….. all food stall holders are very ready to let you sample and they love to hear your opinion!

Avignon Christmas Market – Roasted Chestnuts – the aroma draws you to this stand

A number of Santonniers display their figurines (Santons), which make up the Provencal Christmas Créche. At Avignon Christmas Market you can stroll down the “Chemin des Crèches” (Nativity Road). This is a very pleasant and pretty walk through the lighted Nativity displays composed of a variety of styles of Santons.

Avignon Christmas Market – Displays of Santons

Avignon Christmas Market – Santonnier

Avignon Christmas Market – “Chemin des Creches “

The Nativity (“Creche”), is an important decortion in Provence, as according to legend, Jesus was born in Provence and each Creche represents the particular village at the time of his birth. In addition to the usual figurines you would see in a Nativity, Provencal Santonniers carve additional figures of characters you would normally see in the village – the baker, the butcher the grocer, the wood cutter and many others.

Avignon Christmas Market – Pere Noel (Santa) in his workshop

Aix-en-Provence Christmas Market

Aix-en-Provence Cours Mirabeau

In Aix-en-Provence the elegant Cours Mirabeau is lined on both sides with log cabin market stalls. The spectacular display of Christmas lights on this beautiful boulevard adds to the festive atmosphere as shopping continues well into the evening

Orange Christmas Market

In Orange …. the Christmas Market features items made by local Artisans

Christmas Market – Orange

If you’ve been just wishing to escape the frenzy of Christmas at the Mall – the Christmas Markets of Provence provide the best antidote…

See you by the Hot Chestnuts stand!

Shopping In A Provençal Village

SABLET: Every Friday morning: The weekly market in Sablet (Marché Hebdomadaire) takes its place in the Village Square, known as the Aire de la Croix.

The Charcuterie Stall a the weekly market – looks like everything you need for Aperitifs – Some Saucisson, Cheese, perhaps some Pate …..

It is still a fairly small market, having started during summer 2011, but I’m sure that it will grow this year into a flourishing small town market as Sabletains, visitors taking vacation breaks in the village, and neighbors from nearby villages stop by to do their fresh fish, produce, cheese and charcuterie shopping……

The Fish Market stall has been visiting Sablet on Thursday mornings for a number of years. You can count on the freshest of fresh fish and shellfish

………maybe take home some Couscous Royal for lunch from the stall at the market.

Couscous Royale for lunch anyone? Light and fluffy Couscous accompanied by a delicious, spicy sauce – a little bit of Morocco infused into your Provence vacation

Visitors to Provence and Sablet often comment on the friendliness of the “commercants” in the village. Whether your vacation is one week or two months, you are greeted with the same friendly smile and customary, happy “Bonjour Monsieur” or “Bonjour Madame” when you enter the shops. Help in finding purchases – maybe even suggestions on how to prepare and serve whatever it is you are buying, is normal. Presentations are always prepared with care and pride – the displays are so inviting that you can’t help but let your creativity and imagination go to work planning your next meal. When they know you like a particular item, they will make a point of remembering. Good old fashioned service!

The Bureau de Toursime is right there off the village square

Over the years, our village has attracted a group of dedicated and hardworking shop keepers,hairdressers, artists and “Bureau de Tourisme”. The staff at the Bureau de Toursime are ready with helpful information, and to serve visitors with samples of wine from all the Sablet Vintners. They host scheduled informational walks around the village, recounting the history of Sablet over the centuries, and pointing out significant buildings. Without this group of people, working at their businesses daily, then planning events for the inhabitants and visitors to Sablet, our village would certainly lack some of its ambiance, charm and fun.

Just off the Village Square, the Tabac carries a variety of newspapers, souvenirs and gifts. It is also where you can buy a card to recharge your French “mobicarte” mobile phone.

Just in case you find yourself visiting Sablet …. let me introduce you to some of our Commercants …. that way, you’ll already have friends in the village.

Madame Moulin – proprietor of the Boulanger Festival, presents an extensive variety of traditional and old fashioned bread, as well as many different whole grain breads. All breads and patisseries are baked fresh daily on the premises.

Monsieur and Madame Pradier – proprietors of the Boulanger Pradier, where you can buy traditonal breads and patisserie. Here they are pictured with the “Gallettes des Rois” or the Three Kings Cake a tradition in Provence at the feast of the Epiphany. This picture is from the Sablet Blog

There’s something about French bread that makes it hard to resist munching it as soon as you get it!

We have two Boulangeries – les Festival and Pradier. If you are a guest spending your Provence vacation at Maison des Pelerins or la Baume des Pelerins, the smell fresh bread baking at the boulangeries of Monsieur & Madame Pradier who run the Boulangerie Pradier and the Moulin family who have the Boulangerie Festival, very early each morning, will be familiar to you. These bakeries open before 7am each day to make sure that everyone who comes can get their fresh bread, croissants and my favorite, Pain au Raisin (I’m addicted to these!) for breakfast each day.

What better way to start the day, than with a very cheerful, “Bonjour Madame! Un pain au raisin et une baguette?”

But be prepared, these guys are popular – the lines often stretch all the way out of the door!

Monsieur and Madame Fabre – proprietors of the Epicerie Vival Market – there’s never a problem of running out of the essentials when you have the Vival Market within a few steps.

Next door ….. Monsieur & Madame Fabre, proprietors of the Epicerie Vival (Mini) Market, have stocked the little market with everything you might need for your day to day living.

Charcuterie, wine and cheese …. what more can you want?

This store is really like a small supermarket. It is packed full of fresh fruit and vegetables, milk, butter, yogurt, cheeses and other dairy products, cleaning products, a small deli (which includes a great selection of sausages) and a good selection of wine.

The attractively displayed produce is fresh and seasonal

It is SOOOO nice to be able to walk for less than two minutes down to the store to pick up something when I run out.

Then … we have the Pizza Restaurant, Pizza Comme Di (take out or sidewalk seating), and the Cafe – very important in the life of the village, as a meeting place. It is impossible to stop in any time of day – early in the morning for a cup of coffee, or an aperitif in the evening without running into someone you know.

Bruno – the proprietor of the Cafe des Sports offers a warm welcome to all who stop by for a coffee first thing in the morning or an aperitif in the early evening. This picture was taken by Loran List, a professional photographer, who was one of our guests at Maison des Pelerins

Your host at the Cafe des Sports is Bruno, whose smiling face and warm greeting lets you know your in a friendly place. The cafe also has a casual restaurant “la Cornucopia” right next door – great for lunch or dinner.

The Restaurant Cornucopia displays its menu on easy to read boards. As you can see, they serve both a Prix Fixe Menu and an a la Carte Menu for both lunch and dinner. During the “season” they have special evenings such as the one known as the Fete des Belges, which means that the meal they serve that evening is the best Moules/Frites (Mussels Mariniere and French Fries) you have ever tasted!

The Restaurant les Remparts is a cosy place to have a meal in the Winter and cool relaxing spot on the Terrasse during the warm weather.

Likewise for les Remparts, another casual restaurant that serves a Prix Fixe menu and A La Carte menu at lunch and dinner – inside, or outside on their pretty terrasse in good weather.

We spent the time in Sablet right after Christmas, and met Mr. Thierry Bonfils, our new butcher. Monsieur and Madame Bonfils took over the Boucherie about a year ago and there is universal admiration for the quality and well priced products he presents.

Monsieur Bonfils – don’t hesitate to go into the store thinking you don’t know the cuts of meat – he will patiently help you find just the right cut for your meal.

Don’t worry about not knowing the French cuts of meat. Monsieur Bonfils is always cheerful and helpful, making sure you completely understand the cut of meat you inquire about, and if you wish to know, the best method of cooking it. Although he does not speak English, he has diagrams on the wall and he will show you exactly where the cut of meat you are considering comes from. He has a wide variety of meat – beef, lamb, pork & chicken as well as pates, home made sausages and other charcuterie.

If you’re not sure which cut will be best for the dish you are planning to make … don’t hesitate to ask.

Over the years, I have heard many people say, “French lamb is great, but the beef is not the best.” I now have news for everyone who has not had great beef in France – Come to Sablet. I tried many cuts of beef during the three weeks we were there and I will say that they were all great, the Entrecote steak and short ribs were the best! While we were in there, I heard many people say, “we are so glad that Monsieur and Madame Bonfils are in Sablet.”

and … if your not in the mood to cook … Monsieur and Madame Bonfils carry a good array of prepared dishes that are ready to simply take home and heat.

Madame Bonnet – proprietor of GB Fleurs – always an display of gorgeous flowers and plants

Madame Giselle Bonnet who runs GB Fleurs – is a treasure. She makes a great contribution towards making Sablet a “beau village,” as I heard one visitor describe our village. It is impossible to walk past floral displays both inside and outside her store without stopping. Really nice to be able to pop in for a last minute gift of fresh flowers or a beautiful plant. She also holds Flower Arranging classes. I know that at least on one occasion, Madame Bonnet has accompanied our neighbor, who looks after the garden/courtyard at Maison des Pelerins, to advise and supply the flowering plants for the garden and vegetables for our petite potager. Merci Madame …. UPDATE: Since the first posting of this blog. Mme Bonnet has moved her Florist’s Shop to another location and we now have a Creperie and Tea Room in that location. I’ve heard lots of great things about the delicious crepes – will keep you updated.

Lastly, about a year ago, Mme Roure who had owned the second Epicerie for many years retired – and we miss her smiling face in the village square. Since her departure, the new owner of the building that housed her store, has spent all this time renovating the building and I am told that we will soon have our own Estethician!

Could it be possible? Facials – perhaps a mini-spa? I can’t wait … guess what is the first appointment I’ll be making on the next trip!

This is a very brief introduction to the Commercants of Sablet. There are many others such as the Hairdressers (very good), talented Artists, the Pharmacie, Banque and so on who haven’t been mentioned here. They will all treat you with the same care …. but I thought I would introduce those whom you are most likely to come into contact with on your vacation in Provence.

CLICK HERE To see a map of the village and the location of the shops.

Le Festival d’Avignon

Was that Big Bird or a Giraffe in a skirt crossing the road?

Did it have anything to do with all the TV cameras and reporters at the Avignon TGV Station when we arrived?

Like to run into these guys in a dark alley? Performers from the "Off" Festival entice shoppers to attend their show

If It’s July …… Avignon’s Theatre Festival is the place to be!

Zebra in fluffy slippers?

In July, the Town of Avignon feels like an artsy Disneyland with a good humored and fun filled atmosphere. Every inch of available space on bus shelters, buildings and canopies are covered with colorful “affiches” (posters), advertising all types of theater activity. Restaurants and Cafes bustle with actors stopping for a quick break or theater goers on their way from one stage to the next.. During a three week period, almost one thousand shows are performed!

The Avignon Festival, that first started back in 1947 when French actor, Jean Vilar was invited to perform at the Palais du Papes (Papal Palace). From its beginning at that time, the Avignon Theater Festival set the stage as a showcase for lesser known plays and modern scripts. It is a venue that encourages creativity and an experimental approach to theater and concerts.

Ladies of the Choir? I think they're up to something!

The Festival has grown into two festivals in one – the “In” and the “Off”. The “In” is organized by a non profit organization and administered by a French national and regional government board of trustees. The performances of the “In” Festival are still at the Palais du Papes and other theaters throughout Avignon.

The “Off” Festival is also organized by a non profit organization, made up largely of theater companies. The performances take place in theater schools or any available space around the town.

During the Festival, Avignon becomes the center of French theater activity and plays host to many well known French and foreign performers. If you would like to visit the Festival on your next summer visit to Provence, it is prudent to book accommodation well in advance as this is a very popular venue.

The Knights Templar in Provence

One of the ironies that surrounds the story of the Knights Templar – the Warrior Monks as they came to be known, is that they were formed in Jerusalem around the year 1118 as the “Order of the Poor Knights of the Temple of Solomon”, to protect the newly established Kingdom of Jerusalem maintain it’s security, and protect pilgrims visiting the Holy Land at the end of the First Crusade of 1096. However, it is speculated that their end which was first initiated in the year 1307 and completed by 1312, was brought about by the fact that they had amassed extreme wealth and influence. They were brought down in a rather spectacular fashion by King Philip IV (Philip the Fair of France) who was heavily indebted to the Knights Templars, and Pope Clement V who had established the Popes in Avignon in the year 1309.

Jacques de Molay, nineteenth-century color lithograph by Chevauchet

The disbanding of this Order began on Friday 13th of October 1307, when Philip ordered all of the Templars in France to be arrested and imprisoned for “Satanism and other unnatural acts and practices.” Many were found guilty after torture-encouraged confessions and others for refusing to confess. In March 1314, Jacques de Molay, the leader of the Knights Templar, who had spent the previous several years in prison for being a relapsed heretic was burned at the stake on the Ile-des-Javiaux in the River Seine.

Two Templars burned at the stake, from a French 15th century manuscript

During the nearly two hundred years that the Knights Templars operated between Western Europe and Palestine, the “Templars” as their official title was abbreviated to, not only set up secure routes for pilgrims traveling from Europe to the Holy Land, but also established the first “Banking System”.

12th century stone marking Hugo de Bolboton founder of the Templars of Richeranches in 1136

When men joined the Order, they took an oath of poverty and donated all their wealth and lands to the Knights Templar, and in 1127 when they received their first large donation of land, it began a flood of many such donations and special privileges granted to the Order by various Monarchs and Popes. This together with the spoils of battles, lead to the amassing of a true fortune, and a great deal of power, having received an edict from the Pope which gave them authority to operate across the borders of many countries, but made them answerable only to Pope himself.

Placque tells of the Arrest and trial of the leaders of the Templars

The Order was the first bankers who set up the basis of the system that is still in use today. Their banking activities included, loans to Monarchs of both England and France to finance the Crusades, transporting money and valuables between Palestine and Europe, lending money to pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land and setting up a system whereby a landowner leaving to travel to the Crusades or on a Pilgrimage, could deposit their assets with the Knights Templar in their home country, and travel with a form of a Letter of Credit, which enabled them to make withdrawals from their account at other locations.

Courtyard of the Commanderie des Templiers – Richeranches

The Knights Templar set up an extensive network of Commanderies from Europe to Palestine. These Commanderies were support bases for the Knights and Pilgrims whilst on their journey. They also served as training centers for young knights in training and retirement centers for older knights. The support systems included not only the knights who were the heavy cavalry, but assistants to these knights, known as sergeants who were equipped as light cavalry and drawn from a lower social class than the knights. There were farmers who worked the land for the production of food, and other agricultural products such as corn, wool, oil and cattle that were used locally as well as to supply the Holy Land – they cared for and administered the properties. The spiritual life of the Order was seen to by the Chaplains of the Commanderie, who were all ordained priests.

Exhibition of Templar Artifacts in Richeranches housed in the old Commanderie

Provence has a number of towns that were home to Commanderies of the Knights Templar. Close to Sablet and our vacation rental homes there is a particularly good example of such a main Commanderie in the town of Richeranches. Here, the Commanderie was erected on land donated by Hugo de Bolboton, a local land owner who was committed to the cause of the crusades. The fortified structure followed a common square courtyard layout with a Chapel and a refectory at opposite ends of the structure. Although many of the original buildings of this Commanderie have been destroyed or incorporated into other structures of the village, the Refectory building, the Dining and Meeting Halls of the original Commanderie is still intact and perhaps one of the best preserved in Europe. The Commanderie in Richeranches became an important center for horse breeding. The constant need for horses during this time of warfare required a steady supply of sturdy animals and Richeranches horses became known as the best breed to carry the burden and heavy armor of the knights during battle.

The Templar Cross on the roundabout leading to Richeranches

The Commanderie at Richeranches carried a high designation on the same level as those of Aix-en-Provence and Arles, and therefore had subsidiary Commanderies in Orange, Roaix, Villedieu and Montélimar, with other support centers for the Templars in Cairanne and Vacqueyras.

Cave Cooperative at Richeranches – known as the Cave des Templiers

Despite the uncertainty associated with this group of Warrior-Monks, certain aspects of their legacy appear to be remarkable. Their temporal contribution to the safe transit of the pilgrims was direct and real, but their ongoing contribution to the modern facility of international banking may be their real legacy.

Since the official disbanding of the Knights Templar, many myths have persisted including stories of – treasure found at the Temple Mount in Jerusalem and hidden by the Templars; the Knights possession of the Holy Grail and the Ark of the Covenant; Recent authors in books of historical fiction have linked them to them to the Rosicrucians, the Priory of Sion, the Rex Deus, the Cathars, the Hermetics, the Gnostics, the Essenes, and, ultimately, lost relics or teachings of Jesus such as the Shroud of Turin or a “Judas Testament.” Interest in some of these claims has been sparked by The Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown.

Provence In Roman Times

Beyond the fields of sunflowers, vineyards, lavender fields and olive groves, it is impossible to drive through the Provencal countryside without noticing the remnants of the Roman colonization of the area which began in 120 BC and continued for 600 years, until the second half of the 5th Century AD when they were displaced by the Visigoths. Evidence of Roman presence can be seen throughout the area, even in the smallest towns and villages. You will find yourself crossing an old Roman bridge at Vaison la Romaine, or Bedarrides or Pont Julien near Bonnieux where the bridge provided the river crossing for the ancient Via Domitienne. The Romans built roads to connect major cities in the Empire, some of which are still in use. Via Aureilienne was the major artery that connected Rome and Arles. It’s route passed Aix en Provence and Salon de Provence and today the RN 7 between Aix en Provence and Nice, follows the much of the same route, whilst in an area just east of Tourtour in the Var, a long section of this 1,700 year old road is still in use

Map of Gallia Narbonensis showing Roman Towns and old Roman roads – image source – www.explorethemed.com

Rome established a foothold in the area when the inhabitants of Massilia (today Marseille), a Greek city at that time, asked for Rome’s help in battling the Celtic tribes of the interior. The newly established Roman Empire (125 BC), anxious to connect Italy to their newly won territories in Spain (a result of the wars with Carthage), was only too pleased to “help”, and by 120 BC, the Roman Empire had spread across the entire southern coast of what they then called “Transalpine Gaul” (France). Provence, as a sub region of Transalpine Gaul, first became known as Provincia Nostra. As the Empire spread throughout the Mediterranean, the name Provincia became confusing as there were many Provincae Nostrae, so it was renamed Gallia Transalpina for a period of time, before the Emperor Augustus finally named it “Gallia Narbonesis,” with its capital Narbo Martius – today’s Narbonne. This new capital was intended to divert trade from the still Greek and wealthy city of Massilia and the Rhone Valley.

In Vaison la Romaine, Roman vestiges can be seen throughout the town

Treating the Provinces as an extension of Rome, Emperor Augustus granted land in the Provinces to landless legionnaires as a reward for victories. They could settle with their families, so securing the territory for the Empire and work the land producing food and materials for sale in Rome. The facilities of each settlement were an important element in the stability of each community, therefore “mini Romes” were constructed in each settlement complete with theatres, baths, forums and arenas

In Arles, the Roman Arena seats 26,000 people

The Second Legion were the recipients of the town of Orange for their heroic service during the Gallic wars. This town, which now carries the name of the royal family of the Netherlands, is home to two magnificently preserved Roman structures. In the middle of town is the Theatre Antique built just before the birth of Jesus Christ and is still in use today for the summer Cheorogies, where up to 7,000 spectators can be accommodated at any performance. Notable aspects of this theatre are its incredible acoustics and an enormous screen wall, which serves as a backdrop for performances. On the outskirts of the town, is an Arc de Triomphe – a monument to the Roman victories in the Gallic wars. Originally built on the Via Agrippa, today it is the majestic centerpiece of a very large roundabou

Orange – Arc de Triomphe

Nimes, or Nemausus as it was known in Roman times, was bequeathed to the Legions which fought and defeated Antony and Cleopatra at Actium. Very quickly, it began a transformation into a Roman town. Within the impressive city walls built to enclose nearly a square mile in area was an amphitheatre, a forum with temples and a watchtower. The best known of the Roman structures still standing in Nimes is the Maison Caree a Roman temple which served as the inspiration for Thomas Jefferson in planning the State Capital building in Richmond, Virginia. Today, it is a museum which is open daily to the public. The Arena, or Arenes, was modeled on the Colosseum in Rome and can seat up to 21,000 people. It is considered the best preserved Roman amphitheatre in the world, but it is still home to Provencal bullfights or tennis matches in the summer

In Nimes, the Maison Carree is a Roman Temple which was the inspiration for Thomas Jefferson when planning the State Capital building in Richmond, Victoria

As the settlements in the south developed into a bustling towns with many prosperous residents, the need for a safe and steady supply of water began to grow. This resulted in one of the most impressive feats of engineering and construction of Roman times. The Pont du Gard, is a majestic three tiered structure that was built to traverse the Gardon River at a fifteen storey height. Construction of this structure was started in 50 BC and was completed in less than 5 years. It is built completely of hand cut stone blocks that took hundreds of men to hoist into position. It stands today as the second tallest Roman structure in the world and has withstood many, many floods that have washed away much newer bridges. The bridge and visitors center are open to the public daily. The bridge is quite often the backdrop for concerts and fireworks displays.

The Pont du Gard

Just outside St. Remy de Provence, lie the ruins of the old city of Glanum, which contains among other vestiges, a forum and thermal baths. Opposite Glanum are the ruins of a mausoleum, and an Arc de Triomphe, which were constructed in approximately 30 AD.

Vaison la Romaine – the nearest large town to Sablet, was a very prosperous Roman center. Prior to its very gradual Roman conversion, it was the capital of a Celtic tribe – the Voconti. The Gallo-Roman city developed around the villas already built along the Ouveze River. The gradual Romanization of the town is credited for its success and stability. Vaison la Romaine became one of the richest cities in Gallia Narbonensis with numerous geometric mosaic pavements and a small theatre that has been refurbished and is open to the public. Roman vestiges can be seen throughout the town and the Visitor’s Center provides information on locating the various monuments.

The Old Roman Bridge at Vaison la Romaine over the Ouveze River

During the second half of the 5th Century, the area went through a period of instability following invasions by the Germanic tribes – the Visigoths in the year 480, followed by the Ostrogoths, then the Burgundians and finally the Franks in the 6th Century. These invasions coupled with the waning of the Roman Empire and the power it exercised it the region saw the end of the Roman Era in Provence. The fact that so many structures and monuments have survived to this day, is a testament to the to quality of the workmanship of the times and the wealth and prosperity brought about during Roman times.

At Vaison la Romaine, Roman Vestiges show the pattern of the streets and the layout of the old Roman town

Solving the Mysteries of the Terroir

… That is exactly what fellow Sabletain and “Terroirist” Olivier Hickman does.

Read carefully …. because Olivier has spent many years making himself familiar with the terrain, learning the patterns of work, analyzing the components of each fermenting vat, and critically evaluating the results of many, many ….. acres of vineyards … and Wine Harvests!

Olivier guides a tasting at Domaine la Fourmone

Although not all wine experts agree about the exact definition of the somewhat mysterious concept of the “Terroir,” it is of supreme importance in the French wine industry, (and is becoming increasingly important in many other wine growing areas). The basic element of the concept: a belief that the land on which the grapes are grown, imparts a unique quality which is specific to that particular area – be it a region, a vineyard or even a specific area within the same vineyard. It also includes the micro-climate and the surrounding vegetation and airborne natural yeasts. Coupled with the Appellation Controlee system, there’s a lot to learn about.

Sablet is surrounded by vineyards

The Vendange in the vineyards around Gigondas – thanks to Dave Condeff for the picture

Olivier points out that, “The winemaker is king in the New World wine industry (Australia, Americas, etc). Styles of New World wines are driven, predominantly by wine making skills in the cellar.

In France, the emphasis is to “grow” a wine where the wine style is a product of the growers’ unique terroir and their grape-cultivation skills. The winemaker behaves more like a midwife: they are not the mother of the wine, there merely bring forth what was born in the vineyard.”

Out in the vineyards, a group of guests experiences the terroir

From enthusiastic amateur to the connoisseur, well versed in Southern Cote du Rhone wines, Olivier – the Proprietor of Wine Uncovered in Sablet, offers customized wine tours. His aim is to help his tour guests come away, having enjoyed the tour, and learned in as much depth as they would like to, of all that goes into the making of these fine wines, and the “Appellation Controlee” system. “Enjoyable, stress-free and informative tours” is the motto at Wine Uncovered.

Olivier’s tours visit selected Wineries. Guests can choose between a half day tour of two wineries, a three quarter day tour of three wineries or a whole day covering four wineries, touring the cellars and taking outings into the vineyards, with a discussion of the philosophy of those wineries, the growing areas and methods, the types of grapes and their wine making techniques. Tastings are guided by your host and allow the opportunity to ask lots of questions and gain a much broader understanding of one of France’s most versatile wine regions.

Olivier, a graduate of Cambridge University, began his career as a Financial Controller. After this he opened a Wine Importing business in London, and then he began wine making in the Languedoc. He and his wife and two children moved to Sablet in 2005, and began Wine Uncovered Tours, which has received many wonderful reviews and will soon be featured on the PBS Series “The Winemakers”. Having grown up visiting his French grandmother in nearby Orange, he naturally felt quite at home amongst the vineyards of the southern Cote du Rhone.

If a Provencal vacation in your future and you would like to know more about the tours that solve the mysteries of the terroir, you can check out all the details at: www.wine-uncovered.com

Maybe we’ll see you there!

A Year in Provence’s Vineyards

The vineyards of Provence have taken shape over centuries, some still functioning that began as far back as Greek or Roman times. Producing wines is treated as both an art and a science. A great deal of respect is shown to the surroundings and traditions of growing grapes and making wine. The landscape of Provence is spectacular, but is subjected to a climate that can be very harsh, with its strong mistral winds, hot summer sun and from time to time, freezing. Here, in these vineyards, their ever mindful caretakers – Provence’s Vintners – faithfully care for their vines so that Provence remains one of the richest wine producing regions in France.

Spring in the vineyards … Waking up ….
As the days grow longer and the sun starts to warm the soil, the first sprouts of leaves and the beginnings of the little grape bunches push through from old, gnarled vines as well as newly planted ones. The countryside takes on a pale green hue and it seems as though there is daily change in the vineyards of Provence.

Tufts of green stand at the end of vines that have slept and regenerated through the winter. Provence can experience its heaviest rains during the Spring.

As the Spring rains come, the vines flourish and the vineyard workers start pruning and spraying to shape the vines so the grapes will get maximum nourishment, and protect against pests and diseases.

As the vines continue their growth, the Mistral winds which are more prevalent in the Winter and Spring months, play an important role in their health. They act to cool and dry the grapes, which makes them less susceptible to pests and diseases associated with humidity.

Summer in the Vineyards ….
By early summer, the landscape is a carpet of bright green… Provence has a truly Mediterranean climate with dry summers. This area is blessed with an exceptionally high number of sunshine hours, approximately 2,900 per year, exceeds both Los Angeles and Miami which have a little less than 2,100 sunshine hours per year. The warmth and sunshine help to develop a high sugar content, and if you have ever sampled a grape directly from the vine, you will know how sweet and juicy these grapes are.

The work never stops …
Vintners constantly work in the fields manicuring the vines and making sure the grapes are developing a good sugar content. Vines are pruned to limit the leaf growth, and also the number of bunches of grapes, as it is believed that vines that bear too many grapes, will result in wines that lack flavor.

At this stage, the vineyards are so picturesque. They are a pleasure to take walks through or to find a quiet spot for a picnic.

As the days stretch and the sun beats down, the grapes develop a strong flavor and character.

The Vendange (Wine Harvest)…
This is a season unto itself …. Beginning in late August, and stretching through to the end of September, the Vendange takes over the scene. The vineyards of Provence stretch from its western boundary of the Rhone Valley to the Cote d’Azur in the east. During the vendange, this 150 mile stretch is a hive of activity.

It’s all hands on board –
Towns and villages fill up with workers coming in to help harvest the grapes at their prime. Very early each morning, you will see trucks carrying loads of workers out to the vineyards.

Tractors pulling trailers heavy and piled high with deep purple grapes, shuttle between the vineyards and the Wineries where they will line up to unload and head straight back to the fields. It is not uncommon to see signs on roads that say, “Attention! Vendange en Cours” In other words, there will be lots of slow tractors and trailers on the road, and pay attention, as they might pull out onto a road in front of you from a vineyard at any time!

A stream of purple grapes falls from the bin of the picker into the trailer, ready to be transported to the Winery

Attention! Vendange en Cours!

A tractor and trailer has just arrived back to Sablet with its load, ready to have the sugar content measured and the grapes crushed.

Unloading into the crushing bin

A fresh load of bright purple grapes sliding into the crusher.

As the grapes are crushed and the juice extracted, the stems are separated out and taken away. The stems and seeds make a great base for compost.
At the end of each day, the tractors are parked and the trailers are washed clean of the sweet, sticky grape juice … ready to start again the next day.

As Autumn comes ….
The light takes on a golden hue, and so do the vineyards. The grapes have been picked, a new vintage is on its way. It’s time for the vines to let go of this year and start preparing for the next. As at first the evenings turn cool after golden, sunny days – then the mornings become hazier and cooler, the leaves begin to change color and soon the landscape which was cloaked in brilliant green, takes on waves of orange, gold, red and burgundy.

Spectacular color fills the countryside

Getting closer to Winter, and there is still work to do in the vineyards. The canes bearing the bunches that produced thousands and thousands of liters of wine now stand tall and bare. The pretty leaves have gone for another year and there is a distinct whiff of smoke in the air as the vines are pruned and the piled up clippings make very cozy looking bonfires. One vintner explained to us that this is a very important part of the process, as the burning of the vines adds back to the soil and becomes a part of the “terroir,” which is an essential element in the philosophy of wine making in France.

As the canes are trimmed and the vines go back to their essential base and branches, we can see (in the picture below), two or three plumes of smoke to the left of the village of Sablet. These plumes are from the bonfires made to burn the clippings.

Here, the vineyards at the foot of the hill on which the village of Seguret is situated, rest in the very late Autumn. Soon it will be time for opening this year’s new wines – “the Primeurs”.